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In Hunan's Xiang Xi, the Miao
ethnic minority's semi-autonomous region, Jishou is a small city with a
large and growing university, which resonates with the heaviness of miles
of surrounding lonely farmland and which is a hive of students, peasants,
and a new class of entrepreneurs trying to make something modern of a remote
town. Jishou is inescapably distant to the world and to the new China,
and yet is still quite clearly under its influence. Urban improvements,
whilst not extensive, give Jishou an atmosphere of impossible hope.
Yet this is not to say that Jishou
is hopeless; indeed it is the rising star of the region, and since the
visitation of Chinese premier Zhu Rongji during the time I was staying
there, it has undergone rapid redecoratation. Jishou is a tiny yet proud
city of unforgettable allure.
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